Farm to Fork: Hyper-Local Dining at the Free Range Exchange

HOKAH – In 2019, Ben Horn was a man on a mission. 

Horn wanted to create a place to serve up seriously local cuisine – the kind of place that would showcase what’s possible with local ingredients and leave a lasting memory on one’s taste buds. 

With that in mind, Horn and business partner Cami Kolstad-DeVaney launched Free Range Exchange, a cafe, bakery, coffee shop and mini farmers market all rolled into one. 

Located in downtown Hokah, Free Range Exchange is open for breakfast and lunch with an emphasis on local products, family farms and small businesses. Alongside scratch-made bakery treats, locally roasted coffee and menu items, customers will find directly-sourced vegetables, fruits, honey, syrup, meats and more. 

With a focus on locally available ingredients, Free Range Exchange makes a variety of rotating baked goods and menu items. (Photo by Greg Lovell)

“Many places are cookie-cutter and rely on simply reheating packaged food or sourcing the cheapest,” Horn said. “Our ‘why’ was to provide a place that truly served local fresh goods.”

The seeds of exchange

Having worked together extensively through the La Crescent Farmers Market, Horn and Kolstad-DeVaney were ready to start their own business, so they mashed up their skills to create a plan for the Free Range Exchange. 

After a few years of dreaming and wishful thinking, the duo had an opportunity to purchase a building in Hokah. With a lot of elbow grease, clerical work, and help from friends, they converted it into the shop it is today. 

The Free Range Exchange offers a range of drinks, baked goods, and breakfast and lunch items. (Photo by Greg Lovell)

“Finding connections for our supplies was one of the more enjoyable parts of starting our business,” Horn continued. “We already had a head start with knowing many small farms and businesses from our experience at farmers’ markets.” 

After a little time, Horn and Kolstad-DeVaney made connections with more suppliers, and the business naturally grew and evolved as others realized what they were trying to accomplish with  the Free Range Exchange. Eventually they opened a second location in La Crosse.

Now with 20 full- and part-time employees, both locations are hopping as they churn out delicious sandwiches, soups, baked goods, and more daily. 

Daily grind

Horn says every day at the Free Range Exchange is different, but making a customer smile with a fresh muffin or delicious coffee is always rewarding. 

“Walking in, you can expect a warm smile and fantastic smells, and we always have the music on,” said Horn. “We aim to have fun, learn your dog’s name, and talk about your hobbies. You may not know it yet, but you just became our new best friend.”

Running a cafe isn’t all leisurely smiles and conversation, however. 

Janie Kaatz prepares made-from-scratch English muffins for the day. (Photo by Greg Lovell)

Making everything fresh from scratch requires a great deal of preparation, cooking and baking, plus cleaning up and making sure all the kitchen equipment is ready for the next day. 

Despite the countless hours and intensive effort required to run a business, Horn says he most enjoys the connections and people. Plus, it’s a reflection of who he is.  

“The concept of Free Range is simply a spillover of our own lifestyles,” said Horn. “Supporting local businesses feels good. Providing a genuine service and giving back to many local groups in the area is very rewarding.”

Keeping it local

Through it all, Horn prioritizes knowing exactly where every ingredient and product comes from. Free Range Exchange partners with many area businesses – and sometimes even a neighbor down the street – to source its goods.

“The farm-to-table concept is nothing new because one can argue that everything comes from a farm somewhere,” said Horn. “However, we focus on sourcing hyper-local from area small farms and businesses.” 

As a result, the Free Range team has formed genuine friendships and connections along the way. 

The Free Range Exchange is located in downtown Hokah with a second location in La Crosse. (Photo by Greg Lovell)

“One thing I am kind of known for is ‘having a guy for that,’” said Horn with a laugh. “I have a story for everything and am proud to be pals with the people who bring us honey, syrup, meats, coffee, veggies and more.”

Horn and Kolstad-DeVaney, together with the support of their families, don’t appear to be slowing down any time soon as they look to continue their mission, which is in their motto: Providing fresh local goods made with love. 

Whether stopping for a coffee, scone or other tasty treat, regulars and visitors alike will most certainly feel that local love. 

If you go: Free Range Exchange is located at 46 Main St. in Hokah, with a second location in La Crosse at 215 3rd St N.